Y'all, today was a LOT. And this is going to be packed with info and photos, mostly mine, but I am having such a gleeful time looking up the things we saw today, and I just HAVE to put it in here.
We woke up this morning fully expecting the tropical storm style rain to have hit full force while we slept, so we didn't bother to set an alarm. We leisurely tooled around the hotel room until about 9, and decided it was a good morning for Cafe Envie. The last time we went to New Orleans, we discovered this place far tooo late in our stay to revisit it as much as we felt it deserved. They had, hands down, the best croissant we had ever had, and we have been chasing the taste and texture of those croissants since we left.
The croissant. THE croissant. Although, according to Derek, "it was buttery and delicious, but not as flaky as the first time. It was just as tasty."
This was my meal. A prosciutto, asparagus, and provolone omelet that tasted more like salt than anything else. Yikes. And a bummer. I left hungry, as I have pretty much every day that we've been here. I am Jack's Sad Tummy.
After Cafe Envie, we drove to St. Roch's Cemetery #1, where the internet assured me that, despite renovations for termites or some such shit, I could still see the shrine I had been waiting to see for years and years. Spoiler alert, and bad news from the past: I could not.
Well.
I COULD, just not in any kind of meaningful capacity. I took what I could get, though.
I think I've made it fairly clear in my blog that, while I gleefully disbelieve in all gods, I am quite fond of the pageantry of religion. I love the stupid holiday traditions (some more than others), I love the stupid beliefs because they are just so fucking absurd, and the story of St. Roch is one of the more absurd, and I am kind of obsessed with it. So I'll sum up, in the interest of brevity.
Back in the way back times, circa the 1300s, this bro Roch was like, chilling out in Italy when the plague hit, and he was like, FUCK IT'S THE FUCKING PLAGUE, I better fucking like..do some shit about it. So he figured helping the plague ridden was a better idea than fucking right the fuck outta there. By helping, I mean he read them the bible and talked about god and shit, seeing as how those pestilence ridden fuckers were about to meet him and all. Gotta cram for finals in that situation. Anyway, Roch got the plague, because obviously, and for all of his troubles, he was banished from his little town. So he was like, Well, I mean, I guess I'd better goo die in this forest LOL. He hermited himself away, as is the custom when you're a banished plague victim. Some dog wandered up to him and was like, bruh, you look fucked up, you need bread? And Roch was like, UMYAH. So this dog brought Roch bread and Roch was like, cool, wanna lick my festering fucking plague sores? And the dog was like, FUCK YEAH. And then Roch was healed. Some fucko from the town Roch was banished from found these two in the woods, just hanging out being cool and shit, and the guy was like, WOAH, HOLY SHIT, YOU'RE HEALED, I GOTTA BE YOUR DISCIPLE!
Which.
Let's take a beat here and acknowledge that, as the legend goes, Roch wasn't healed until AFTER the dog licked his wounds. So really, uh...the DOG should be the saint here. The guy should have become a disciple of THE DOG.
Back to business.
So after all of this shit, Roch is like...knighted or promoted to Saint or whatever the fuck it is that happens, I don't know all of the paperwork and formalities. Saint Roch is the patron saint of...several incongruous things, and as a whole, they are hilarious. Saint Roch is the patron saint of dogs, invalids, the falsely accused, bachelors, Istanbul, surgeons, tile makers, gravediggers, pilgrims, apothecaries, and second hand merchants. What...what the fuck? Come the fuck on. Pick a theme and stick with it, my guy. Find your lane.
Zooming forward to the closer, but still super far in the past, way back times, yellow fever was doing a fucking number on Louisiana. For real, in 50 years 40 thousand people succumbed to it (succumbed is fancy for "died as fuck"), and that number only represents the deaths from that time in New Orleans. Shit was wild as fuck. So, in the 1860s, this reverend was all like, SHIT. I have to do something, this yellow fever is taking out all of my parishioners. And his genius idea was to pray to St. Roch, begging with all of his dumb little body that his invisible friend would keep his community safe from the scourge (just his community. Selfish. Couldn't ask for a favor for like...everybody else? OR do prayers have a range of efficacy?).
And it worked.
For whatever reason, that parish suffered no losses to the yellow fever epidemic.
So the reverend who did all of that praying was like, cool, thanks bruh, let me build you this fucking chapel and shit to show my gratitude. So he built a tiny little chapel in the middle of town and was like, alright! Job done.
But the locals were like, super greedy for more than just that "not dying of yellow fever" bullshit, they wanted more. Because that's how people are. So people came from all around to pray at this little chapel for a speedy recovery from whatever thing ailed them, and when they got better, they would come back to the shrine and be like, thanks, bro, here is my glass eye, I don't need it anymore, thought you might want it. So for decades, the healed believers have left their fake feet, their crutches, their false teeth, whatever it was that they believe St. Roch relieved them of suffering from, as thanks. So there is an amazing shrine of the things people have left over the years.
This is not the only space where the items are stored, but it is the only one I could get a shot of through the dirty window AND the dirty plastic covering the dirty window. It isn't the gawking I had planned on doing, but it'll have to suffice.
We walked around the cemetery playing the standard "find the oldest death date" (I think I won at 1893), and right before leaving, I came across this interesting grave:
Listen here.
I have questions. Several questions. Chief among them, however, is....are we meant to be watering our corpses? With the same delivery system that we water our gerbils and hamsters? WHAT IS HAPPENING HERE.
After St. Roch Cemetery, we drove out to an abandoned location I have been wanting to explore for a few months (I found it when we booked our trip, since we hadn't had time to explore anything abandoned the last time we were in NOLA). I found a spot that allowed us to climb a tree, and climb a fence, to get onto the property, and it should be noted that by this time, it had been steadily drizzling for several hours. So it was muddy, muggy, and generally grody out.
I did not get anything even good adjacent while we were there, I got a really not great vibe from this place.
The view from the fence we climbed to get onto the property.
The primary view of the front of the building, but you know...from the side.
More side view. That hot hot side action.
This is the courtyard, and I had to do some seriously heavy lifting in lightroom to make it something you can even see, let alone discern what kinds of things you're seeing. And that grain. Ugh. Here are the photos I took on my cell phone, which are marginally less terrible. Or more terrible. You be the judge!
Derek and I have made tentative plans to return with our tripods and flashes, because the chapel looked amazing (after Derek did some heavy lifting of his own with his photos), and we're hoping that returning on a day with less rain will provide a better chance for photos. We'll see how the trip plays out.
Derek found a hole in the fence, so we were able to just...walk right out instead of climbing trees and fences. We saw what I think was a Mississippi kite, just hanging out on a power line, but I haven't done enough checking to say that with any kind of authority. It's just a hunch.
We left and drove to another location I wanted to investigate, but I found that I was far too late for this building. Not only had it been demolished, but it had been demolished long enough ago that grass had grown over where the building once sat. I threw an internal temper tantrum over it, and sulked for a solid five minutes. During that five minutes of sulking, as we drove back to the tourist section of New Orleans, the rain REALLY started coming down. Sheets and sheets of it. It made driving problematic. Whoops, I wrote that wrong. It made PASSENGER SEAT DRIVING problematic, as I couldn't see the road.
No worries, though. We dropped the car off at the hotel, grabbed our umbrellas and our camera gear, and headed off to the Museum of Death. Which was uncomfortably packed (I am fully vaccinated, I wear my mask everywhere, and I am STILL paranoid about large groups of people), and also fucking lame as fuck. It was pretty much one mummified cat and a fuckton of pictures of murder victims. We weren't allowed to take pictures inside, so we didn't, and I will hold fast in the reasoning I told Derek, Laurel, and Alex, afterward: they don't allow pictures because they don't want you showing everybody else how utterly crap the museum is. Museum. That's seriously giving itself airs. It needs to come at itself modestly. It's more like the Room of Crap. It was an absolute let down.
But that's ok, because the real star of the day was The Pharmacy Museum. Now, I went here last time, but Derek didn't. So I didn't get to explore it as much as I wanted to. But this time, Derek was interested, and Laurel was interested, so I really got to investigate, and I am so fucking glad, because this very well may be my favorite place in New Orleans.
Here's where the blog is going to get long, because not only am I going to share the photos I took, I'm going to talk about all of these AMAZING fucking tinctures number two, and number one, give you fucks a history lesson, because this fucking place has EVERYTHING.
Right off the bat, this was the very first apothecary in the united states. The guy who opened it was also the first licensed pharmacist in the united states. That's cool, right? Yeah, it totally is. Buckle up, it gets worse.
So this first licensed pharmacist opens up the very first apothecary, and is like, this shit needs to be multifunctional. So the apothecary is also a post office, a hardware store, and a soda fountain (the soda fountain is still in the museum, which I find absolutely delightful!), so locals were always like, just hanging out at the pill joint, getting their soda on and mailing letters and shit. A solid time circa the 1820s. The founder was a pretty successful pharmacist, as they go. All of the herbs, and fuckin' cobblestone dust and like, dried tar or whatever that he put into his tinctures were pretty helpful to the people who were buying them alongside their warm, flat by today's standards sodas, and all jokes aside, he was very instrumental in getting quinine to the people beset by yellow fever in the area. He was fucking legit. As legit as a doctor back then could be.Thirty years after he opened the pharmacy, he sold it to a serious fucking douche canoe for the respectable sum of $18,000 which, according to the most basic of google searches, is worth over half a million in today's money. 557k, approximately. The founder took that money and fucked right off to France, dying shortly after of what I can only imagine was drowning in his own fucking wealth.
This next dude that bought the local soda-ing hole was not so great. Nobody wanted to hang out to have a soda after buying a hammer and some Mexican Bowel Pills (those are totally a real thing, I am so excited to put these pictures up!), because the rumor mill was percolating the hottest of teas: this mother fucker was unethical, and experimental, but not in a fun, sexy kind of way. He was mixing things together that had no right to be mixed into themselves and selling it to unsuspecting people who only needed to mail their letters. His experimental tonics didn't even work, so he was fleecing his customers, to boot. The gossip squad was ALSO talking about how people were pretty regularly going into the place...and never coming out. And when people asked the new owner about it, he was just like, "fuck if I know, I bet they went back to France."
Among the list of nasty allegations against this non-licensed charlatan, perhaps the worst was his experimentation on pregnant enslaved women, doing the utter most to dehumanize them and devalue more than society already did. He just like, threw shit into bottles, shook it up, and was like LOL drink up, let's fucking see what happens, maybe you'll explode LOL. There were also whispers that he was putting addictive compounds in his tonics, like cocaine and heroine, to make it so his clientele stayed hooked on his nonsense formulas.
This bro practiced his bullshit for ten years before he, in a fit of delicious irony, died of syphilis. After he died, the bodies of his many, many victims were found buried in the courtyard. The very courtyard where the herbs for all of his fuckery had been grown. The pharmacy museum is said to be wildly haunted, by none other than the syphilitic second owner himself, and perhaps the ghosts of his victims.
NOW. To clear the air here, I am unsure how much of that is just fun, ghastly lore to tell on a haunted tour of New Orleans, because it makes for great, shivery fodder. Madcap wanna be doctor, murdering women and unborn babies, murdering patients, just generally being a fuckball? And now he's haunting the place he did all of these shitty things in? AND his victims are locked in that same space with him for all eternity? Sold!!!
However, after about an hour of investigating, I can only find evidence of the second owner's property being given to his widow upon his death. If that little tidbit of information hit the papers at the time, surely scores of bodies being found on said property would have made a page, as well? I could find no verification of his atrocious treatment of people in New Orleans, though that doesn't mean it didn't happen, it just means that an hour of digging is my threshold, and if the information is out there, I'm leaving it to more steadfastly inquisitive minds. It certainly makes for a good tale, though. There should also be something noted that...I had a little itch in the back of my mind while reading up on all of these accounts of the horrendous pharmacist and his house of horrors, emphasis on addictive additives like cocaine in his tonics. I did a little searchy-search on the ol' google machine, and it turns out, the nag in my brain was right...soda fountains were used by pharmacists to aid their patients in washing down their nasty ass medicines. A pretty common ingredient in sodas of that era? Cocaine. I think it's pretty common knowledge that Coca Cola is so named BECAUSE of a primary ingredient of the drink being fucking cocaine. As for the heroin, well...I mean...most importantly, heroin as it is understood today, and contextualized in the lore about this museum's second owner that I read across the great chasm of the internets...wasn't invented until 1874. The bad doctor died in 1867, which you'll notice is before the synthesis of heroin as we know it. So that marks that rumor as untrue, and even if it had been....it may come as a shock to you that pharmacists back in the day were fucking WILD when it came to just dosing people on shit we qualify as schedule 1 these days. Fucking morphine was like, given to babies and shit. Just put morphine on their gums when they're teething, it's precisely what they need!
I'm no historian, but I truly am hard pressed to find any documentation, other than lots and lots of haunted new orleans websites, and pages like Atlas Obscura, that legitimizes any of the legend I recounted. That doesn't mean the telling isn't fun, and by all means, feel free to leave out the boring truth of the matter if you want to pass along a solid tale of madness and medical mayhem. I'm all for it.
There is more air to clear, as well. History at the museum talks about it being the first apothecary in America...it wasn't. There is a pretty solid history of Apothecaries in the colonized areas on the east coast (Boston, in particular) as early as the 1710s and 20s. So what the museum means is, the apothecary was the first LICENSED apothecary in the united states. The man who founded it truly was the first licensed pharmacist, that bit is not a manipulation of the truth.
Here comes the fun stuff, though!!! The tinctures and goodies that are housed in the museum! Honestly, I could have spent all fucking day investigating this place and taking photos of everything they had housed there. Per their website, these display bottles come from all over the world, but are pretty era specific to the time it was open (the 1820s through the...whenever it closed? I know the museum opened in 1950, so it closed as an apothecary sometime before then). And the labels are absolutely WILD. I was having the best time editing these photos and then looking up the medicines I got the best photos of. I want to apologize for this blog being so long, but I won't, because I'm not actually sorry. This is funny and interesting
So here we go.
First up:
Dr. Edison's Obesity Salt! I was unsure of whether or not this salt caused obesity (times were rough back then, and rations may have been scant. Gotta put meat on those bones to survive the plagues running rampant in the cities!), or "cured" it. If you are like me, you will find this ad circa the 1890s incredibly helpful.
So, at first I thought it was fucking hysterical that this ad has a bunch of dead mother fuckers testifying to it. Couldn't find any alive persons of distinction, could we? And then I did some digging and...I feel like this MUST be a joke someone made, because...seriously...three of those people died of fucking bronchial complications, one I couldn't find a cause of death, and the other died suddenly (and I'm just spitballing here, but of some sort of...breathing related illness, perhaps?). The date on the website I found the latter ad on says it's from a London paper circa 1887. Which sits a little poorly, as I had previously found a date for Himrod's being founded in 1924.
I'm pretty fucking sure that mustachioed thief crime walking jauntily to Canada with a stick and bindle full of money is Minard himself.
And good news, all you animal lovers! If you have no need of this miracle drug, you can cure your livestock of anything from colic to cracked teats! If you can't guzzle it away or rub it away with liniment, is it even really a problem? Hooray! Life is solved!!
I tried to find ingredients, but the only place that had an available insert from the box to view wanted me to pay to view it, and I'm just not about that life. Not because I'm cheap, but because I'm broke. I could see just enough to make out the words PINE TAR AND HONEY, and I suppose I'll go ahead and throw an ick on top of my yikes pile and let it all burn to nothing.
Some brand's Chocolated Worm Syrup!! Now, I couldn't find anything on this one, because the brand was gone, but it turns out that everybody was selling worm syrups back in the day. Check out this ad from another brand:
Essentially, Bovinine is used to beef up (pun not intended) people who are malnourished. Per the bottle itself:
I just fucking LOVE that this tonic says it can cure lost manhood AND poverty blood. I looked up poverty blood, because it was so horrendous/hilarious to me, and it turns out, poverty of the blood was a very real way that anemia was discussed. It was also called the green sickness, as people struck with it might get a little tint of green to their skin.
Went across the street too Bourbon Pride, and then the skies opened up and we trudged the mile home in an absolute downpour, and called it a night.
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