I remember attending a party in my super late teens where I drank a bunch and fell asleep on a garage floor, and I woke up feeling the most refreshed and rested. A garage floor.
In my twenties, even after having had two children, I could part all weekend, doing drugs, smoking weed, drinking booze, and get the best sleep of my life passing out on the stairs of my own townhouse.
I am 42 now and I am super baby bear about shit. If it isn't JUUUUUUUUUUUUST right, my body...and my mouth....are going to loudly complain about it. That bed at Grant Lodge was fucking heinous, and for 352 dollars a night I expected WAY fucking better bed quality. 350 dollars a night gets me the fucking Mining Exchange and dinner at Mackenzies in the springs. I almost would have rather slept in my car. And to top it all off, we woke up at 5am. In a shit bed. In a nice room. In one of the most beautiful locations in America. I need to grow up.
A groggy Derek and Drea stumbled through getting gear and clothes and selves collected, and out the door we went to make the hour drive to the grand canyon of Yellowstone.
Cold cold cold.
We drove to Lookout point and I was wildly surprised to find the parking lot empty. I was sure we would be joined by one or two photographers.
Not a single one. Not until after sunrise.
Oh no! Beaultiful solitude!
Beautiful solitude with bonus handsome companion.
I was absolutely fucking feezing my tits and tail off, it was I think 30 degrees out. We were weather gear appropriate, but I have Raynaud's Syndrome (thanks, POTS and EDS!) and it makes my hands and especially my fingers HURT and they get all ugly colored and it sucks, but listen. Listen listen listen. It was so worth it. I don't even think I got anything super great from this shoot, but I would do it all over again, with the same quality of photos, in a heartbeat.
I mean come on.
At sunrise, Lookout Point was swarmed with a tour of just the nicest people who kept apologizing to Derek and I for being in our way, which they absolutely were not, and apologizing for so politely asking us if we would mind getting out of their way for just a moment. I was like, "girl say less, I don't own this, it belongs to all of us! Take your time!" and they were so appreciative like I had done something super magnaimous when really, all I had done was get out of THEIR way.
I think we were there for a total of an hour? Maybe an hour and a half? I got "bored" of trying to get a great photo of the falls, I figured I either got it or I didn't, continuously pushing the shutter button for another twenty minutes wasn't going to change that. So I wandered around the viewing area and took a ton of photos of the canyon. It is just stunning. Derek and I drove through the rest of the one way drive and stopped at all of the pull offs to take another look. Each one a winner. We didn't do the North Rim trail because honestly we didn't have the time. Yellowstone is unfathomably large. I had really wanted to do the North Rim trail, though, and I was kind of disappointed that we wouldn't have the time to do it.
Which is why our next activity is going to sound so stupid.
A few weeks back, though Derek swears we've known about this for years, I stumbled upon a reddit thread of people talking about National Parks Passports because I wanted to find a way to log all of the parks that Derek and I have been to together, and the parks I've been to in general. More the parks we've been to together. Mortality starts knocking at your door at 42, I don't know, I j ust want to posterity the big time shit we do. So anyway, there are these things called National Parks Passports. You get cancellation stamps each time you visit visitor's centers in any national park, and you collect all of the cancellations for everywhere you've been. Like a regular travel passport, but nerdier.
Obviously I wanted one. I didn't think Derek would be into it, but he is also into it in a major way. At Badlands, we went to the visitor center to buy our passports, and found them closed for inventory (boo. BOO!), so our first day in Yellowstone, we had to get our passports. We drive to the first visitor's center near us, and while we waited for them to open, we walked into a gift shop. A Xanterra gift shop. This is where we decided to grab all of our stuff for the trip. We ourselves aren't really big on souvenirs, we don't do the tshirts or the hats or the anything like that. I get a magnet from everywhere we go, and we usually grab the kids something of the unusual-er trinket variety. I got Vivi a book, I got Rhyann huckleberry waffle mix and huckleberry syrup...or jam, I can't recall. We didn't get anything for Laurel because her birthday was four days from...then...and we figured we'd just send her birthday cash, and I very validly feared any gift we bought her as a souvenir would just sit unsent in our kitchen. Just like the big wooden postcard I bought for my dad and Caryn that Derek turned into a magnet. It's been sitting, waiting to be sent, for ages. Had we opted to get Laurel a something, she would have been tricky to find a non-typical souvenir for. I would have had to ask her for help, and that's kinda crap. Anyway. One thing Derek and I DO go nuts for is local boozes. If a place we visit has a whisky or a rum or a gin, we usually grab it, especially if it has a nice label. We almost never open them, they're commemorative. We bought Grand Prismatic Run and two Yellowstone shot glasses. All of this pales in comparison to getting our Parks Passports.
Now.
The Xanterra gift shop workers were very nice. I asked if they sold the passports, they told me they didn't and we would have to go across the street to Yellowstone Forever. But they did have their own version! And the clerk I was talking to showed it to me. And I LOVED IT. I ended up buying it for myself. But there was only one, so Derek didn't get the cute one I bought. He had been holding out hope for the Colletor's Edition in the big binder, the hugely expensive one that was for the super park nerd with a compulsion for oderly collection units. Unfortunately, all Yellowstone Forever had was the dinkiest version. The introductory version. The craphound one.
Mine is cuter.
But it didn't really matter, we finally had a place to put our cancellation stamps!! And boy did we ever get involved in this. It turns out, there are also regional stamps you can collect....Derek went this route...and art travel stamps you can collect....I went this route.
The stamp may be pretty, but my passport book sucks way less.
If you've never been to Yellowstone, or never gotten cancellation stamps from national parks, just know there are a lot. So grabbing all of the cancellation stamps was a sidequest of ours that...speaking strictly for myself...I greatly enjoyed. Even now, I'm tickled going into national whatever whatevers and finding stamps. A lady at the superintendent's office of the Rangers of Bridger-Teton National Forest (who had the most chaotic bisexual energy of anybody I've ever met) remarked on Derek and I being cancellation collectors and she's the first person who didn't look exhausted by us stamping our stuff. But that's Drea from the future stuff.
Derek and Drea of the recent past got busy with seeing as much of Yellowstone as they could. We opted to do the u pper half of the park the first day, so we cut across the middle of Grand Loop and headed upwards toward Mammoth and Gardiner. We stopped at every little pull off of interest to us.
The Roaring Mountain Fumaroles!
This waterfall!
This scenic byway!
After driving that very scenic byway, we saw a gentleman on the side of the road flagging down drivers, and we were the only people who stopped. It turns out, he just wanted to show people a mountain goat on the side of the cliff. Derek saw it, I did not. I sat in the car and ruminated about how the idea of god really cheapens the idea of natural beauty. Like, if some god figure created all of this, well...that's just a great imagination. I have that. God isn't all that special if god is just imaginative. Yellowstone is just me having to marvel at what some other person did if god exists, and like, earth as a kind of curated museum is as boring as any other museum if you think of it that way. Sure it's cool to look at, and incredible to see the breadth of what's achievable, but...it's stuff we're all capable of doing? Looking at any gorgeous scenery and thinking some god made it really cheapend and flattens the impact. But if you look at earth like I do...like no god exists and this all just...happened because cosmic conditions were just so and shit just blammo'ed itself into existance and exploded and collided and died off and lived in different ways to get to the point where I am sitting in my car ruminating on how god makes Yellowstone boring....THAT is something to marvel at. THAT is something that's incredible and amazing. God as designer? Boo. Cosmic and chaotic non-intention? That option is better.
Derek chatted with the sheep guy for about twenty minutes while I chewed on how many ways it makes everything suck to believe in god(s), and then we got back on our way to Mammoth. We stopped at the Upper Terraces and did the boardwalk.
The absolute strangeness of this specific place is matched only by its splendor. I do love taking strange tree photos, I've got quite the little series going, so as I was taking a picture of the strange trees in the upper terraces, I chatted with a young man named Hasan, sent him to go talk to Derek about camera gear (I am not a gear head), and Derek befriended him and chatted with him and traded info with him, and I have to get some of that info from him so I can send him the photo he took with my camera.
I think what I enjoyed most about the boardwalks was the signage.
I read an account...I cannot verify how true this is...about a man who died in Yellowstone after trying to get someone's dog who jumped into a pool. His last words were, "I shouldn't have done that".
David Alan Kirwin is the guy I was thinking of, and I was ALMOST correct about what his last words were reported to be.
Spoiler: we did a very good job at not falling in to anything.
After Mammoth Hot Springs, we headed to the Mammoth Visitor Center and went to the Roosevelt Arch so I could grab a picture.
I didn't get out to get a picture of the cornerstone, but I wanted a picture of the arch because I think, out of every single thing the US Goverment has done, national parks are our saving grace. It's the best of what we've accomplished in spite of every nasty thing underneath it. All of the land theft, all of the murder, all of the recklessness with the land and its resources...national parks are a hint that we're not entirely monstrous, and we know some things are sacred and precious and worth preserving.
And then, you know, we had to indulge in buying Derek's second passport book. Because gravitas never lasts long.
Derek did eventually find his binder edition once we got to Grand Tetons, but I vetoed that. Two of these is just fine.
We got our stamps, I grabbed a Junior Ranger booklet (bad news from the future, I did not finish it. They make you do a LOT! But I CAN finish it and mail it in to get my badge, will I fully intend to do), and we headed out to Lamar Valley. For real this time. We stopped at Undine Falls, and as much as I wanted to do that trail, it was ten miles and again...Yellowstone is just so massive that two days is really only enough time to drive to everything and do short little bursts of walking around. Lava Trail to Undine Falls is ten miles, and we did not have that kind of time.
It was very pretty, though. It would have been great to hike down and see it from the bottom. Well. Oh well. We weren't quite to Lamar Valley, I don't really know where we were, but we saw a huge herd of bison hanging out by a lake, so we stopped to ogle them.
I have several minutes of video of watching them run by us and congregate further up around the lake, and that's just such a cool, scary thing to experience. Bison are HUGE and they are noisy and their regular bison noises sound threatening and it is just so neat to be around for their natural behaviors.
I think we hung around here for about thirty minutes before the park rangers cleared them all out to the other side of the road to unstop the traffic (we never did get caught in a bison jam, we always stopped on purpose and stayed to take photos. Lucky us!), and we kept on truckin' to Lamar Valley. But...by the time we had driven through Lamar for about twenty minutes, Derek and I pretty much simultaneously said we didn't really want to keep going through there, we wanted to turn around and drive back through Hayden Valley.
So we did.
And it paid off.
We saw a mated pair of bald eagles hunt, kill, and tear apart a duck.
Derek got the kill shot:
I got the ripping shot:

and we both got to be in awe of how amazing and brutal animals are.
A gentleman with a very huge camera lens came up and chatted with us and told us he had been coming for 15 years to Yellowstone for animal photos and this had been his worst fall season yet, and then told Derek and I to come back in early May when babies are out and plentiful. We stuck that little fact in our cap for later.
Derek and I had talked about going out for milky way photos somewhere on Lake Yellowstone, and I had previously been entirely game, but I said I had changed my mind, would Derek mind taking me back to the lodge? He didn't mind at all, so we went back to the lodge, Derek put on a movie for me on the laptop and left, and within 15 minutes I was out for the night. At 6:45pm. And I didn't wake up until 5am the next morning when we had to leave for sunrise photos at Old Faithful. Derek did get some lovely milky way shots, and he told me how eerie it is to hear elk bugling at night when you're alone in the dark, even when you know what the sound is. I'll have to post one of his photos in the photo wrap up I do at the end of all of my travel blogs.
A successful day four if I've ever had one!